John Muir Trail 2024

If you’re lucky enough to have an opportunity (and courage) to thru-hike with a parent, do it. For my mom and me, we’d been dreaming of hiking the JMT together for years by the time we finally took our first steps on the storied trail at the start of August. A knee replacement, pandemic, fires, snow, and other hikes had conspired to push this dream trip down the line, but 2024 was looking like our year. Snow conditions were average, and although a multitude of fires ravaged the western states, the crest of the High Sierra remained remarkably unaffected. After snagging our permits in deep winter, then mailing our resupplies in July, it was finally time to put feet on the trail.

Speaking of permits, our efforts to pick a winning lottery ticket were greatly aided by our willingness to start from an alternate trailhead, Mono Pass in Yosemite, and we were successfull on our first try. I can’t guarantee that this cheat code will always work, but until the masses get savvy to Yosemite’s back door, permits for this overlooked starting point might be the best backup plan there is. Starting at the JMT’s northern terminus in Yosemite Valley is obviously a top choice, with Tuolumne Meadows a close second. Most folks who fail to draw either of these permits seem to either hike NOBO from Horseshoe Meadow, west of Lone Pine, or give up entirely. However, if you’re set on hiking the JMT SOBO as we were, consider Mono Pass. Mount Whitney is roughly the same distance from here as it is from Tuolumne, and there is an awesome pass (Koip Peak Pass) and spectacular lakes (Alger Lakes) along the way, not to mention almost zero people. I would do it this way again. And importantly, starting the journey outside of Inyo National Forest (i.e. Yosemite NP) enabled us to exit via Whitney Portal without any special permit. That’s a huge bonus.

But all that is already too much nitty gritty for this introduction. Ultimately, the John Muir Trail is amazing. Hike it if you can, or a part of it. I’m thrilled that my mom and I finally made this happen. In many ways, it was the most challenging hike I’ve ever attempted, and it didn’t have the perfect ending that I envisioned. The adventure was humbling, and I hope to always carry with me the lessons learned during twenty uninterrupted days of living in the Sierra backcountry with my mom. I consider myself lucky.

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JMT Summary

Start/End: Mono Pass Trailhead, Yosemite to Whitney Portal
Mileage: 192 miles
Elevation gain/loss: a lot
Dates: August 4-23
Resupply: Red’s Meadow, Muir Trail Ranch, Kearsarge Pass
Resources: JMT Snow Conditions
Navigation: FarOut Guide (PCT or JMT), NatGeo Map Guide

The map:
https://new.spotwalla.com/trip/0b53-90dde78-b6c5/view

JMT Gear List:
https://hikefordays.com/jmt-gear/

Highlights:

• Spending three weeks in the woods with my mom.
• Swimming in the warm-ish alpine lakes.
• Checking out new trail on our alternate start from Mono Pass Trailhead.
• Views of Mono Lake from Koip Peak Pass.
• Immersing in the backcountry for 20 days straight.
• Hot springs at Red’s Meadow.
• Fabulous ponderosa, juniper, and aspen.
• Watching Mom find her inner strenght and Flower Power.
• Basking on hot granite slabs at Muir Trail Ranch.
• Getting resupplied on Kearsage Pass by my dad.
• Watching and feeling the mountains build and grow from north to south.
• Feeling small.
• Cooking beans by the liter.
• The epicest campspot on Bighorn Plateau.
• Dinner with friends on the final night at Guitar Lake.
• Surviving.

Trip Report

JMT Day 1: A Perfectly Chill Start (Mono Pass Trailhead)
JMT Day 2: The Great Watery Doughnut
JMT Day 3: Welcome to the JMT
JMT Day 4: One Section Down
JMT Day 5: Hot Springs and Penne (Red’s Meadow)
JMT Day 6: It’s All Uphill From Red’s
JMT Day 7: Flower Power
JMT Day 8: Big Tree Living
JMT Day 9: Trust No One
JMT Day 10: The Biggest Jerk at MTR (Muir Trail Ranch)
JMT Day 11: Crossing the San Joaquin
JMT Day 12: Wanda Rules, Muir Drools
JMT Day 13: The Stumble
JMT Day 14: Perseverance
JMT Day 15: Beware the Mint Cake
JMT Day 16: A Reset at Rae Lakes
JMT Day 17: No Sleep ’til Whitney (Kearsarge Pass)
JMT Day 18: Forester, Whitney, and Feeling Pickled
JMT Day 19: The Center of Everything
JMT Day 20: So Cold, So Close, So Long (Whitney Portal)

If you have any quick questions about any of this, please feel free to contact me. And if you want to dive deeper, I offer Thru-Hike Coaching, which is great if you are an aspiring backpacker or thru-hiker. Overwhelmed by all the details, or don’t know where to start? I would love to help. From route planning, gear choices, on-trail safety, and food selection, I’d be honored to contribute to your journey!