John Muir Trail Day 5: Hot Springs and Penne

JMT Day 5 — 8/8/24
Zero day at Red’s Meadow
Shade and Hot Springs Camp
JMT miles:  0 miles
JMT total: still 36.2 miles
Elevation change: none

My mom’s quilt was mysteriously inside out when we awoke this morning, but other than that, this zero day was perfect. Restful and relaxed. Although we might not have needed the full day to recharge so early in our hike, the convenient amenities of Red’s Meadow were impossible to pass up. And with no more zero days in our plan, at least we’ll be able to look back and remember the cool shade and pine needles whooshing in the warm breeze. I’ve made the mistake before of waiting too long before taking a first zero. Not this time.

It started with a visit to the hot springs, where contrasting hot and cold dunks left my legs feeling like mashed potatoes in the best way. We could see hikers carrying their full packs back to trail below us in the early morning coolness while we soaked. I did notice an urge to join them, but was grateful for the opportunity to unplug and be left behind. The sunlight slowly crept down the tall pines of the campground, eventually cresting the hill behind us and prodding us to get on with our day. The tub was surrounded with wild mint, only noticed after its aroma erupted in the sunshine.

After that, it was granola for breakfast followed by sitting around doing nothing. The campground was empty now except for us. All the familiar faces had either hiked on or decided to go home. To us, it seemed like there was a mass exodus off the JMT, a lot of people deciding that it wasn’t for them after giving it a shot. This trail was already quieter than we expected, and the herd was thinning further. But giving credit where credit is due, I wholeheartedly wished our friends well and gave them huge props for even just starting. Most people who dream of hiking the JMT never reach the trailhead. Making it that far is the hardest part and something to be proud of.

Because there was nothing better to do, and because my ex-therapist mother was picking all my locks, we headed to the store/restaurant to check out the vibe. Quiet there too. We sat and waited for lunch service to begin and flipped our wet laundry in the sun.

Pretty soon, a fellow writer for The Trek randomly chose to share our picnic bench. Neither of us could decide whether the odds were good or bad that we meet for the first time in person this way, on one of the more popular trails in the country, but the conversation was good. My mom bonded with them over their shared love of Scotland and wallpaper. I’ve never been to Scotland or had an opinion on wallpaper, so I was just an observer. I was, however, engaged as we discovered our completely opposite preferences of scenery. They liked the closed-in green tunnel of the Appalachian Trail. I love the openness of a healthy ponderosa forest or anything above treeline. Granite, and thus the Sierra, was out for them, which blew my mind.

Three garden burgers later, Mom and I escorted our clean laundry back to camp where the shade was deeper, and thus cooler. I fiddled on my phone, then called home for a long chat with Spice, all while ogling the most majestic ponderosa pine I’ve ever seen. The trunk was thick, yet slender, and I picked at the puzzle piece bark feeling like a puny fairy person next to this giant. The tufted needles hissed and hummed with each breeze.

A hot shower followed a massive dinner of tomato pesto penne pasta. I dried quickly in the warm nightime air as I walked back to our tent, feeling clean and rested. Red’s Meadow didn’t have everything, but that was a gift. Without shopping or fast food, all there was to do was relax. That’s what we did and it was the perfect zero day. Back at it tomorrow.